EXPERIMENTAL MARKETING OF BEEF AND VEAL PRODUCED FROM EXTENSIVE AND ECOLOGICAL MANAGEMENT OF ABANDONED LAND

Arthur Letzelter, PRN Vosges Du Nord


After five years of active management of vegetation in an abandoned area with traditional cattle breeds, a number of surplus animals were slaughtered and marketed by a group of local restaurants. This experimental and reproducible project was named "Le Paysage, a du goût" ("Landscape has taste"). It made it possible to test the intrinsic qualities of this beef resulting from the extensive system, by all the actors in the filière (slaughter-house, butcher, restaurant, consumer).

In parallel, it appeared a useful opportunity to test the concept of associating a consumable good (meat) with landscape, especially during a time when consumers are placing a higher importance on the origin and the quality of the products which they buy and consume.

WHICH PRODUCT?

Since the establishment of the ecological management of the abandoned lands in 1991, all the males resulting from the multiplication of the livestock (currently 120) were castrated. We thus were able to market older oxen of between 4 and 5 years, with a carcass weight between 280 and 325 kg. The animals (grass fed) were in a good state of finish, so that their carcasses had a high fat cover.

The clear meat yield (weight of carcass less bones, fat and waste) was 61%. The proportion of cuts suited to fast cooking 29 % and that of slow cooking cuts, 71%.

WHICH APPROACH ?

As the animals are outside all year round, they can be difficult to contain. This explains the German approach, which is to shoot them while they are still at pasture, and then to take the carcass to the local slaughter-house.

Slaughter at pasture

Slaughter of cattle at pasture is authorised only for medical cases, and must be carried out with a certificate of a veterinary surgeon. Evisceration must be carried out quickly (45 minutes max) and the animal inspected by the veterinary services of the slaughter-house. The carcass will not carry the Community stamp.

In our case, the animals were caught and conveyed individually to the slaughter-house (30 km), then killed by the emergency slaughter service, in order to avoid unnecessary stress, in particular as the passages are too narrow for their wide horns (1.30 to 1.50 m).

"Sweated" and matured correctly, the carcasses were forwarded to a butcher who prepared them so as to be directly used by restaurants (boned, cut and vacuum packed, and for certain parts, transformed into sausages). "Sweating" refers to the phase of falling carcass temperature which reduces the tenderness of the meat if it occurs too quickly. Maturation allows the meat to undergo a series of physico-chemical changes which make it tender and juicy. Meat can mature for up to 20 days. For the cattle, an 11 day non-refrigerated period, maintaining a core temperature of 7ºC, results in the optimum tenderness (which no longer continues to improve afterwards).

WITH WHO?

The choice of the restaurateurs was consistent with the logic of the programme to test the whole of the filière, and in particular the level of the final transformation of the product. Ten volunteer restaurateurs thus took part in this operation, knowing that:

the duration of the operation was limited to some 20 days (13 November until 1 December);

the selected period was during an off-peak season;

the expenses of communication with the customers would be covered at a rate of 50%;

a royalty of 4 F / menu was transferred to SYCOPARC to cover the costs of landscape management operations intended;

their direct partner was the butcher, having conditioned the various cuts and prepared the sausages.

RESULTS

On each level of the filière, a number of economic, medical, technical and commercial strategies need to be understood and integrated in an overall project.

Principal reports

the product

The origin and the history of our four oxen could be known to everyone, so much so that in the plate one could associate the name of the beast with the piece tasted...

traceability

While taking along one of the animals to the slaughter-house, an identification tag was lost in the transporter. Without it, an animal may not leave the slaughter-house. Indeed, the identification of the animals requires the presence and the correspondence of an EDE (Department Establishment of the Breeding) ear tag, with the DAB (Accompanying cattle document). If either are missing, or do not correspond, the veterinary services will block the animal (there is the possibility of a 5000 F fine) and it will be disposed of as a casualty.

The gustatory quality of the meat of HLC (here of ox) is similar to other breeds, though possibly stronger in taste. The proportion of lean meat compared to the weight of carcass (61%) is lower than that of an ox of a selected beef breed (69%). The proportion of the pieces with fast cooking is approximately 30 % (compared to the lean meat mass) whereas it borders 55% for oxen of heavy race.

The valorization of such meat from an economic standpoint carcasses is more difficult, unless there is some form of pre-sale transformation made to the cuts requiring slow cooking.

the butcher

Very satisfied with the quality of the meat, the image conveyed by this operation, the impact on the company, but realistic with respect to the possibilities of valorization of the carcasses.

This product, different from the traditional carcasses, requires for the butcher to adopt a new approach to valorization (which requires creativity).

the restaurant

Very satisfied with the effects of the communication and with the success of the operation. Rarely has a promotion operation of this type not had a similar response from the public. Nearly 600 kg of lean meat was marketed, which represents approximately 3000 meals. The restaurants are keen to extend the duration of the operation. Additional restaurants have subsequently expressed their interest to promote operations of this type.

the consumer

Two levels of answer were provided by the consumers.

Above all, there was widespread support for the operation. Their written appreciation was expressed within the framework of a questionnaire which was given to them after the meal. In both cases, the association of two concepts - produce quality and landscape - was sufficiently deeply felt to permit the prediction that in the future, a large proportion of consumers will not be indifferent to the idea that such products contribute to a pleasurable lifestyle, and in addition guarantee a quality product.


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Regional natural reserve of Vosges du Nord: The ecological management of abandoned land, an innovative solution to maintain open spaces no longer able to be maintained by agriculture

SITUATION

The park was created in 1975 in response to territorial changes - the charter was revised in 1994. The park extends to 102 communes, 122 000 ha, and has 76 000 inhabitants, straddling the Bas-Rhin and the Moselle regions. Three great landscape sectors are: the Alsace Piedmont, plateau and forest (70 % of total surface of which 80 % is national forest).

CONTEXT

For 20 to 30 years, there have been changes in land use within the valleys of the forest and plateau sectors: agricultural activity has intensified on the plateau and the agricultural pluriactivity has disappeared in the forest sector. These developments led to the abandonment of the valleys more difficult to exploit, which had traditionally been maintained by mowing or grazing.

This change resulted in important landscape and ecological problems: timber plantations, hydrological problems, embankments, the unplanned establishment of leisure infrastructures (ponds, country cottages...). There is increasing political and social pressure favouring the maintenance of open spaces and recultivation of these areas. This will is strong and is shared by local elected representatives, the agricultural world, and other key actors, and it is planned to co-ordinate the initiatives (legal, technical and financial) within an overall planned framework.

There is a need to find, complementary to the existing structures (OGAF, agri-environmental measures, funds for the management of rural areas), a durable device, from the economic and ecological point of view, to underpin the re-establishment of grazing of the valley floors.

ECOLOGICAL MANAGEMENT OF ABANDONED LAND

Obectives

In the communes where there are no more farmers, to implement an action plan for the reconquest of the valley floors, in order once more to open up the landscape.

To preserve, and even improve the ecological potentialities of these environments.

Method

Within the framework of a co-ordinated management scheme for open spaces which defines the ecological and landscape priorities, the environmental management zones are determined.

The municipal council takes care of the mobilisation of the areas concerned and obtains the agreement of their owners for the introduction of grazing. Under council control, repair work can be undertaken to prepare the pasture, using the existing funds for management of the rural areas. The council prepares fences and enclosures for the animals.

Within the framework of a contract, the co-operative union for the park supplies a herd of Scottish Highland cattle. The park becomes owner of this herd. The council nominates one or two persons, often former farmers, specifically in charge of the daily monitoring of the livestock.

Start of the operation in 1991

Livestock: 108 Highland cattle, kept on 140 ha distributed throughout 15 parishes.


OVERALL CONTEXT OF THE INSTALLATION OF ECOLOGICAL MANAGEMENT IN THE ABANDONED AREAS

The ecological management of the abandoned areas forms part of an overall process for the development of the region. This process includes the use of decision-support tools which allow the co-ordinated implementation of plans and indicates tools for necessary action.

DECISION SUPPORT TOOLS FOR THE COMPLEMENTARY LEVELS

The level of the Park corresponds to the level of definition of the objectives: the charter and the plan for the Park, prepared under the control of the co-operative union for the Park, fix the fundamental principles for the development and management of the landscapes (scale 1/50,000).

The level of intercommunality is adapted to the thinking on space and the landscape (approach by valley...): the landscape plans (1/25000) and the inter- commune action plans which result from this are approved by the publicly-owned establishments of inter-commune co-operation or by the communes of a valley, of a landscape sector.

The communal level corresponds to the operational scale: diagrams of management of the natural spaces prepared under the control of the communes allow participative involvement of the actors concerned with the management of natural spaces: to share the diagnoses, to define together the objectives and the priorities of intervention, to treat on a hierarchical basis measurements to take, to mobilise the various means of intervention.

TOOLS FOR THE ACTION

Legal tools: Land Use Plans, Regulations of plantations, Risk assessment plans.

Existing devices: Agri-environmental measurements, Funds for the management of rural areas...

Devices created at the local level: Ecological management of abandoned areas.


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